Over the top and down to the sea - Bright to Metung

Five of our strong brave riders rode to the top of Hotham and then onto Dinner Plain. I congratulate them! Des, Sally, Al and I  rode in comfort instead, able to enjoy the breathtaking scenery on the way up. We were able to dispense water and mini Mars bars as required.

Paul enjoys dessert

And uses a shopping trolley as a clothes line.

Our night in the Hotel High Plains at Dinner Plain was such a joy – no tent putting up, crisp clean sheets, standing and moving room. Dinner was also yummy, cooked not by us on BBQs and gas rings, but instead by a very good chef.

Karen and I drove off the mountain and into Swifts Creek, Des’s home for may years. We set up camp and waited for the others to arrive. Although nominally a downhill ride off the mountain, there was 1000 metres of climbing involved as well. A highlight was the 303 cows and 302 calves being driven along the road up to the high county from Carbungra Station by six horsewomen and men, six dogs and two staff on walkie talkies. We were pulled off the road and so were able to enjoy the sight. We pitied the riders who had to traverse the road covered n cow shit, though.

Droving the cattle

Camped by the Tambo River we set up our seats and enjoyed the concert. The highlight for me was the poem told by Karen, Sally and Brenda, based on a well-known Canadian poem, The Cremation Of Sam Mcgee, by Robert Service. Unfortunately, in the version we were entertained by, Lady Al who enjoyed her chardonnay found cremation in the stick shed in Murtoa. Brilliant parody. Des told stories about Steelo, I sang some name songs as did Al, Michael read Maria’s poem, Garis gave a dissertation, and Bruce was a brilliant MC.

From the Swifts Creek back road to Ensay.

Sally, Des and Garis climb.

From the Swifts Creek back road to Ensay.

The next morning under grey clouds threatening rain five of us set off for Metung. Our first 20kms or so were on a beautiful back road, coursing by the Tambo River. What a landscape. Rural bliss, as the rains have made the grass grow green and thick. The next 50 were on the main road. Lots of trucks as there is extensive work going on the repair the damage done to the area by the recent fires. At times the Tambo was no more than a moving brown sludge due to the run-off from the rains on burnt land. Amazingly, there is growth everywhere in the bush, trees shooting bunches of new leaves from the base of their trunks to the tops.

We farewelled Michael in Metung, as he returns to Germany for his father’s 90^th birthday! From Metung we ride to Cowes, five days on the road, which completes our circumnavigation of Victoria. 

Statistics

Wednesday 4 March Swifts Creek to Metung. A distance of 98kms for me with an average of more then 16kmh, surprising given the climbing involved. It rained from Bruthen to Metung, but not very hard, fortunately.

Wine country to the Mountains

Wheatfields of the Wimmera.

A hop skip and a jump from Echuca to Bright. Well, all of that hopping and skipping was made easier by a slight change to our route. We removed a few kilometres and long, flat rides through farmland, and replaced it with a trip straight to Rutherglen where we spent two lovely evenings and a day riding at a VERY leisurely pace to Wahgunyah via Chambers Winery. From there we hopped over to Cofield’s for a delicious lunch then onto Pfeiffers and home again. A lovely day topped off with a swim in the Soldiers Memorial swimming pool – just Brenda, Dale, Des and myself along with a local kid demonstrating bombs and double bombs and twister bombs.

We had a bit of trouble with the van in Echuca, which was partly why we changed the route. It was towed away on a tow truck and came back in the late afternoon, but by then we have activated Plan B, which was for Garis, Michael and Al to drive to Rutherglen and the rest of us make our way there on the bus. Talk about a milk run! We saw all sorts of Victoria including Kyabram, Mooroopna, Shepparton and Numurkah. My heart beat a little when we almost went to Katamatite, scene of a dusty attempt to hitchhike in 1975.

From Rutherglen we rode to Beechworth. We began in solitary joy along county roads and into Chiltern, an easy 20kms or so. Then another 15kms of similar joy, but as we know in the bike riding world, all things can change rapidly. Soon we were climbing, slowly and steadily, but climbing nevertheless. By the time the main road into Beechworth appeared, it was getting warmer and my resilience for hills was waning. I never thought I’d make it, but I did, as did everyone else, but the last 19kms on a busy road with a narrow rough shoulder going uphill was not pleasant.

All thoughts of hardship disappeared however with a beautiful day on bike paths all the way from Beechworth to Bright. Rushing downhill to the Everton turn-off was quick, followed by kangaroo sightings in paddocks as we dipped along and up Taylor’s Gap into Myrtleford where we enjoyed lunch at Café Chakra. Smoked trout kedgeree for me. Yum!

Bruce, Des’s brother, has joined us for a week or so and it’s great to see him. We have two days in Bright to ride around and swim at the Jumping Off Rock in the Buckland and a few plunges in the Ovens. Bright is beautiful as always, trees galore, birds screeching in the morning and the campground full of kids on bikes.

Statistics

Thursday 27 February: Rutherglen to Beechworth. 66kms with an average speed of 15.5kmh. Lucky those 7.5kmh hill climbs didn’t skew the average too much!

Friday 28 February: Beechworth to Bright. 75kms on bike paths all the way. Beautiful surrounds and a as Michael would say, a perfect day.

The Barham Hotel.

Sunset on the Murray.

Michael loves a coffee.

Des blowing up our mattresses yet again...

From the mountains, through the wheat fields up to the Murray - Halls Gap to Echuca

Camp at Halls Gap

Firstly, I'd like to thank the Victorian Government for making the many bike paths for us that we occasionally have needed to share with various vehicles. Fair dinkum, there are thousands of kilometres of bitumen roads that must only carry a dozen vehicles a day at best.

Leaving Halls Gap

Prior to setting off from Halls Gap we were visited by cockatoos and kookaburras, as well as the mob of kangaroos that live in the campgrounds. I was holding out a crumb of bread when cockatoos decided to use me as their perch. I think there were 6 on me at one time, including on my head. 

In high spirits we following the mountain range, enjoying the bush, the kangaroos and the birds. All day we biked along quiet roads, entering the wheat fields of the Wimmera until we reached Murtoa. 

The Grampians in the distance

Clouds over the Grampians.

As we were setting up camp, Paula came by with her dog Scruffy and after a conversation she said she could organise a private viewing at the Stick Shed. Built in the 1930s to house excess grain, it is a mighty construction, the last of many, made from eucalyptus regnans poles and corrugated iron. 

Next day I was on driving with Michael so it was an easy run into Donald. Next Day to Boort I was on driving again, this time with Karen. We camped on lush grass beside Little Boort Lake and had access to the wonderful ski club kitchen.

From Boort we rode to Barham, just across the NSW border. No country and music festival for us, instead a great night camped beside the river listening to a covers band at the Koondrook Hotel. Hotel California, Stairway to Heaven…all the favourites.

We then took to the long, flat, shade-less road leading to Echuca as the heat set in, as did the head winds, and the tail winds when we changed direction. We came across roadworks, cattle being droved along the side of the road and not a whole lot more. Few vehicles, no shops, no water. Sally and Karen came by with ice and water at the 40km mark, which was fabulous.  A couple of rescues and we all arrived in Echuca safe and sound and enjoyed a lovely dinner with Lucy and Frank who brought along some of his red wines for tasting. Given the hilarity, I think they went down very well.

The Europcar van has been giving us trouble since we left and has now been deemed towable by the company. Let’s hope we get it back so we can proceed, otherwise our planned route may have to change.

Statistics

Wednesday 19 February: Halls Gap to Murtoa. 78kms on lovely roads.

Saturday 22 February: Boort to Barham. A quick run into Kerang with very few vehciles on a nicely paved road, then a further 30 into Barham along a not-so-quiet road. 77kms 

Sunday 23 February: Barham to Echuca. Dry, dusty, shade-less roads in variable condition. 81km.

Michael takes a break.

A lively talk accompanied by dog.

Pelicans at Murtoa

Camp at Murtoa

The long rail that is now used for freight and grain.

Paula and Paul examine bindis.

The Stick Shed at Murtoa

Inside the Stick Shed.

A long view of the Stick Shed.

Sunset at Murtoa.

A grain train crossing as we drove to Donald.

Grain train

The wheat fields near Donald.

Shopping in Donald.

Sally relaxing at Boort.

Yoga at Boort

Sally's gone to ...L

From the beach to the mountains

A Port Fairy mudlark

Paul in tent(s) as he sometimes is.

Morning tea at Hawkesdale.

Lunch at Penshurst.

Along the road to Halls Gap.

It was a character building 40km uphill en route to Halls Gap.

Dawn at camp in Halls Gap.

One of the four kookaburras who visit us in camp.

I counted 18.

There’s nothng like a swim in the ocean to revive one’s spirits and repair small lacerations, so when we setoff from Port Fairy, headed due north to Dunkeld, spirits were indeed high and small lacerations were much less troubling.

Beginning from sea level we climbed about 650 metres for a net gain of 250 metres. That’s bike riding! Although steadily uphill all day, the traffic was benign and the conditions excellent – slightly overcast and cloudy. 

Yellow-tailed black cockatoos chattered above the grazing cattle and sheep, along with the few goats tethered on the verges. It is very rich farmland here in the western district, dotted with volcanic hills.

We ate at the Royal Mail in Dunkeld, a fine dining experience with a fine-dining wallet attached. Nevertheless, no one on our ride would have cooked gin-cured trout or grilled octopus, or served me a glass of white wine in an elegant glass, so I loved it.

The campground at Dunkeld was perfect, as have been all of our campgrounds. Good facilities, small luxury touches, friendly folk. Al has been rounding us all up for games of Skip-Bo – a card game based pretty much on pure luck with a modicum of strategy thrown in. Not too much hard thinking after a big day in the saddle.

Riding into Halls Gap began in the mist and ended in clear blue skies. My first task was to throw myself into the swimming pool where I stayed for almost two hours. Bliss! Des and Dale cooked up a storm and we all went to bed, tired well-fed and happy, ready for a rest day in this gorgeous place with cockatoos screeching overhead and myriad small birds darting to and fro.

Statistics for those interested.

Sunday 16 February: Port Fairy to Dunkeld. 91.5kms in 5 hours, 11 minutes. The terrain is now dotted with beautiful red gums.

Monday 17 February: Dunkeld to Halls Gap. A Little slower at 64.5 kms in 3 hours 50 minutes. When we crossed the high point of the Great Dividing Range it was a glorious 15km of downhill.

The kangaroos are everywhere in our camp.