Sunday 31 July 2016

We've run out of Rhein

But never fear, there always seems to be plentiful good German wine in the supermarkets for not very many euros. I am talking 2 or 3 or 4 euros, no more.

A new crafty idea for lemons

Jo sheeping around

Yes, it is still raining.

Near Duisberg

We're taking Fatty to Germany soon!

A good ride deserves a hard-earned beer. Relaxing at Wesel.


Graeme and Michael patiently waiting.

The Offizierskasino
We finished the Rhein route at Wesel after an overnight at Düsseldorf, another large German city, the growth of which is connected to its proximity to the Ruhr region and the river. Wesel, so my informant told me, was the most heavily bombed German city in WWII, only 8 houses and a church left standing after the war finished. Wesel was a hub for ammunition manufacture. The house we stayed in at Wesel was named Offizierskasino, a grand place built in 1901. Apparently it was considered a potential asset by Montgomery who intended to commandeer it for his officers. Also in Wesel is a large cemetery full of dead English, Canadians and Australians - not sure where the dead Germans lie. I bet any of them hardly cared that Montgomery and Churchill stood on the balcony of the Wach Hotel and decided to move in to the Offizierkasino.

From Wesel we are riding ESE towards Paderborn. Nominally we are following the Roman Route, a route traversed by a victorious Roman legion who sent the Cherusci tribe from Germany scuttling backwards. Well, another war victory that didn't amount to much really.

Jo and Janice rolling IN the barrel!
If you should ever want to ride through Germany, could I recommend the supermarkets that have a cafe and bakery within their walls as a stop for morning refreshments. Service is great; cakes are VERY fresh; and the coffee is as good as anywhere. Stopping at village cafes can be very time consuming and there is no guarantee of better cakes or coffee. We did stop at one a few days ago where we were sneered at by the proprietor for not speaking clearly enough, and I managed to set Des' wind jacket on fire when I and unintentionally placed it on top of a candle. I ask you, who has candles in a coffe shop at 10 in the morning? Nevertheless, if it ever stops raining, it will provide him with good ventilation.

Signage en route.

Jo and Janice pondering Google maps.
Navigation is an interesting animal at times. German signage beats the pants off any other place I have ridden in, but knowing the end point is not enough. Usually the next village is what appears on signs, so one must know waypoints as well as the end points.

Socially, Germany has changed since my last visit (or perhaps it's because I'm in different regions at the moment). The mix of people on the streets reflects recent German immigration policies, and I think it is fair to state that the increasing girth of young Germans is following an international trend. I am pleased to report, however, that the flower box and garden standards are largely unchanged. It's gorgeous to ride past a red brick farmhouse, cattle at one end in the barn, people dwelling at the other, window boxes the length of the building spilling bright red geraniums. I'm not sure the cows hunkered on down in the hay chewing their cuds appreciate them as much as me, though. 

Here's some more stats:
31 July: Koln to Dusseldorf; 54kms
1 August: Dusseldorf to Wesel; 79kms
2 August: Wesel to Haltern am See; 59kms

Kerfuffling towards Koln 

Five days of biking through vineyards, woods, farmlands and villages. Sometimes a bit too hot; sometimes a bit too wet; sometimes a little rough; other times just perfect. It is good to be on the bike with nothing much between me and the sky.

We began at Nierstein, a village on the Rhein renowned for its production of Riesling. If you ever want a great place to hang out for a few days, then don't go past this village. Book into Villa Spiegelberg with hosts Carola and Hans who run a superb guest house no more than five minutes walk to the Marktplatz and a couple more down to the river. Gardens to die for, a swimming pool to cool you off and a cellar-full of good local wines and beers to wash down your evening picnic. And of course it is perfectly situated for bike riding with many trails to choose from.





Two warm-up days of riding, one a LOT warmer than the other blessed by Ernst our savior who brought out cold drinks for us to enjoy in his carport. He also gave us good directions as prior to this, our navigation left a fair bit to be desired. I blame that on being on the right side of the Rhein, as I have never really liked the right side of anything much.



Seven set off from Nierstein to ride to Oberwesel, not expecting the 1.5 km to the youth hostel at the end up a gradient that would try Chris Froome. Most cheated by getting a lift up the mountain or walking. Sturdier men rode. We all enjoyed the spectacular views from the top and a wander round the fortified castle next to the hostel. Maggie left us next morning, leaving six riders to get to Leutesdorf, another picturesque village on the Rhein. Our hostel overlooked the water at ground level this time, a perfect place to sample very local Riesling and beer. And the next day we challenge get ourselves in the rain but made it to Koln or Cologne. I confess to cheating again, catching a local train from Bonn to Koln for the last 30kms. I never have much liked rain riding.




Here's the metrics for those readers so inclined:
25 July: Ameche Radweg loop Nierstein to Neirstein; 35km
26 July: Rhein Radweg loop Nierstein to Neirstein via Gernstein; 70km
27 July: Nierstein to Oberwesel; 80km
28 July: Oberwesel to Leutesdorf; 74km
29 July: Leutesdorf to Cologne; 56km