Amazingly we’ve ridden more than 17 days covering more than 750kms, skirting the Champagne and Burgundy regions, and not until today have we clapped eyes on a single grapevine let alone a vineyard. But that changed today in Chablis. Vineyards and wineries galore.
It’s harvest season so there’s gigantic tractors and cutting equipment driving up and down the narrow streets bringing loads of Chardonnay grapes in to be pressed. On our 1km walk to the supermarket we passed three wineries and to get out of the rain on the way back we went down into a cave and tasted some Chablis.
To celebrate Des’s birthday we planned a cute looking lock turned into a hotel with restaurant evening. Things did not pan out as planned. Instead we dined on sardines, terrine, salami and local cheese made by a woman with six cows. Madam who owned the alternate bistro,
went to a concert so dinner was delayed until 9pm.
The hotel was shambolic. The charge was 85 euros per room. I said I wouldn’t pay more than 50 euros so that was what we paid. No wifi, a bathroom door that got stuck, a downlight that leaked water onto whoever might be using the toilet. Oh, and the door didn’t lock either…A birthday to remember we agreed.
French farmland is gorgeous. Patterns of colour, spinneys and free-range Charolais cattle and the odd sheep. And massive farm machinery. Right now there’s maize and sunflower harvesting and ploughing and sewing green crops taking place.
Generally our accommodation has been fabulous, especially the Airbnb places. We’ve cooked delicious meals, relaxed on comfortable couches and washed clothes. Perfect.
The ride is going well. We begin riding north after this rest day, back to Maastricht. So far 843kms of lovely canals, forests and farmland dotted with villages. Finding a morning coffee is not always possible as many of the villages seem largely empty. But it’s always interesting to find a bar where the people are drinking wine and beer and betting on horses and numbers. We may scoff, but they’re out socialising rather than sitting at home in front of television.
2 comments:
Just the experiences for a writer!! Can’t have a cushy time all the time!! Say HBTU to Des!! X
Sounds like, at the very least, the hotel had character, personality and charm which obviously enhanced your birthday celebrations. Certainly a night that will be remembered always! Thank you for sharing your trip and keep enjoying your adventures. We always say " you've got to remember here you are " Love Maz & Ray
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