Monday, 8 June 2026

Havana to Camaguey November 2024

 Cuba is a place that evokes political feelings, literary feelings and musical feelings. I use the word "feelings" as a way of encapsulating views that I have held, despite any evidence to do so. Arranging a bike ride in Cuba with my riding buddies? Yeah. Why not?

Who was there? Ralph from Albuquerque. Lady Al from Idaho. Nelson from Vancouver. Michael and Angelika from Germany. Paul from Nova Scotia. Des, Maureen, Pauline and myself from Australia. And our fabulous guide Arley, bike mechanic Guillermo and bus driver G from Cuba.

We began and ended in Havana, a three week bike ride plus all manner of cultural excursions. Bikes were supplied by a business, Cubania, that is based in the UK. The organisation was superb. Lucy from Cubania helped us plan a customised ride and organised for all our transport, accommodation, sightseeing and our fabulous three-person support staff.







We set off from Havana by bus after picking up our bikes and riding back into Havana along the famous Malecon, the waterfront where everything happens in Havana: fishing, nightlife, casual conversations between friends and strangers, embassies - or at least their remains, and and travelled to Santa Clara where Che Guevara was stationed and active during the 1959 Fidel Castro uprising against Batista. Stories of heroism, small forces with big strategies, a statue and other memorabilia from the time are dotted in the city.



Next stop was Camaguey, a spacious town of about 350,000 people. We rode into the town after visiting a communal farm at Sancti Spiritus with a few pigs, a few bits of farm machinery and not much else. The people are thin. This is observable all over Cuba. There is simply not enough food to go round. Apparently farmers are required to "sell" to the government 90% of their produce and keep the remainder. Doesn't matter what the percentage is that you keep, if it's not very much, it simply is still not very much.

It was in Camaguey that I discovered a rations store, and Arley showed us a ration book, neatly laid out month by month, that enables Cubans to obtain stapes such as chickpeas, meat, fish and other goods WHEN they are in stock. This store was selling minced up fish the morning of my visit and not much else. 

There was also an evocative collection of street art. Amusing and skilful.















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