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| The water bottle bonanza |
The second surprise was coming across Gloria and Bob half way up a slope, Gloria complaining of chest and arm pains. Stewart and I waited with them until TDA was alerted and able to take appropriate action for Gloria to attend a medical facility. (Gloria spent several days in hospital undergoing tests and has now re-joined us in Bratislava.)
The third surprise was lunch where we were nearly blown away as a tremendous storm blew in bringing with it copious amounts of rain. Stewart and I sheltered in a bus stop, along with countless Poles, and while there entertained ourselves attempting to read a sign that had been recently affixed to the glass interior. From this we deduced that the Tour de Pologna, no less, would be passing through in an hour or two. Laughing like drains we remounted and sallied forth, soon nodding and smiling at the ever increasing number of young - and old - men dressed in black firemen's uniforms who lined the route. As we progressed, small crowds gathered and some even took our photos as they cheered and clapped us on. Finally the time came when two fast motorbikes whizzed past and waved us off the road. By this time George and Monique had caught up, having been lost earlier in the day, so we took up positions on the verge and waited.
The first eight riders zoomed through, then far back and below we could see a snaking procession of support vehicles, police and more motorbikes, followed by the peloton. Amid wild cheers I managed to keep my feet as more than a hundred fit young men rushed past, wheel to wheel, bristling at about 45kmh I suppose, a speed I only dream of.
But the fun was only just beginning. Monique spotted a water bottle being thrown, so then the hunt was on. We all managed to score water bottles discarded by various team members. Mine is a Caisse d'Epargne. Brian advised me not to wash it, just fill it with water, as the residual EPO would help me the next day on the hills.
Eleven hours later we rolled into yet another third world camping spot, elated by a day of climbing, distance, weather and souvenir water bidons. What more could a girl want?
The next day - and the next and the next - we climbed into the Slovakian mountains having crossed the border late the day before - we were high in the low Tartras or low in the high Tartras, not sure which, but I do know we were HIGH. The views were spectacular even if climbing for 6 or so kms at a time was more than I bargained for. Climbs were followed in part by swooping descents, and altogether we gained 750 metres nett during the day.
Some days we followed rivers that were flowing with us, other days they flowed against us, meaning of course the inevitable climbing. Highlights included two caramel deer that sprang startled from the side of the road and afforded us a glimpse of superb animal muscle in motion.
Town names changed from four or five consonants in a row as per Polish custom to more manageable titles like Sucha Hora, apparently reminding Brian of one of his former girlfriends. We also passed through a number of Horny villages, so the theme seemed to be set. One night we spent in a gorgeous mining village - Banska Stiavanko - even more surprising was that TDA picked up the tab for a guest house. The town's monument erected by the good civic folks many years ago to celebrate being spared by the Plague was commanding in both its size and materials used. A similar monument in Bratislava is much more modest.
Our second talent show was held in perhaps the worst camping ground we have been in but the sheer talent on display raised everyone's spirits as we roared with laughter and rocked in pleasure as those with beautiful voices sang to us. Ralph 'Gorgeous' Monfort was a fine MC, the two Ronnies (George and Stewart) brought us world updates from Radio BULL and a three act drama captivated the audience with its plot twists and turns. An all round good evening that followed a quiet day of only 78km of climbing followed by rolling hills and farmlands.
Then into Bratislava. Route was fine but busy with trucks and cars, day was fine and sunny and the corn crops seemed endless. About 10km prior to the city I rode through what I thought was a puddle which turned out to be a huge break away in the road surface, so I have now scored my first fall with subsequent minor grazing and bruising. Nothing to rival Ron though, who decided to take on a car in a village and has more cuts and marks to add to those from his previous falls.
Bratislava has developed significantly since I was last here on the Orient Express trip. Lots of cafes and places under the shade to enjoy food and wine, but unfortunately the prices have progressed to match the increasing sophistication.
The trip to Auschwitz wasn't as harrowing as I thought it might be, there being on display tonnes of human hair, hundreds of thousands of shoes, suitcases, toothbrushes, hairbrushes and other belongings of those who were killed there. Birkenau, or Auschwitz II, was also a huge facility with the train lines running a kilometre from the camp gates to the gas chambers and ovens. Just before the Russians arrived, the Germans bombed the chambers in an attempt to be rid of the evidence. Cruelty, organised and mechanically efficient, on a mammoth scale. It is a just reminder of the importance of thinking about the consequences of what one does, and having the courage to speak and question. It would appear that the work of millions of people, whether they thought through the consequences of their actions or not, must have contributed to the ethnic cleansing that occurred in Europe during the Second World War.
That evening a few of us went to the Jewish quarter in Krakow and enjoyed a delicious meal as well as a three piece klezmer band. It rivalled the chamber orchestra performance of the evening before which I attended in a tiny 11th century church that once stood 7 metres higher than it does now, on account of the layers of garbage and cobbles that have been added to the city over centuries.
The Amber Route continues but we have now lost the thousands of shops and street vendors selling amber products. This has not saddened me one bit. So tomorrow we saddle up for six days as we weave through Hungary and Austria into Slovenia. It is making the anticipation of today's 90 minute Thai massage that much sweeter.
Facts and Figures if you're into that sort of thing:
Friday August 6 to Oravice: 127kms, 17 average, 7hrs 25mins TITS, great day's riding with the Tour!
Saturday August 7 to Turany Truslava: 86kms, 18 average, 54 max, 4hrs 46mins TITS - lovely scenic day with crisp mountain air as we whizzed past ski slope after ski slope
Sunday August 8 to Banska Stiavanko: 112kms, 17.3 average, 6hrs 19mins TITS
Monday August 9 to Jelenec: 78kms, 17.3 average, 4hrs 29mins, 51 max, huge switchback descent
Tuesday August 10 to Bratislava: 119kms, 21.1 average, 5hrs 35mins
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