Down with the Ems

After a rest day in Paderborn, we headed north along the Ems River. We were confident with our navigation having purchased a mighty fine Bikeline book to guide us to Emden, albeit a German language version.

A decommissioned nuclear power station.

The ride to Hovelhof where the river begins was easy and scenic. From there we wound through cornfields and farm communities following the river. Going north meant we had more likelihood of a head wind, and indeed that's exactly what we experienced. Graeme got a paceline happening at one stage, much appreciated by the team. When we needed a break from the meandering of the river, we chose an alternative route. That's the thing about this country that boasts over 70,000kms of bike trails, one is spoilt for choice.

Des ducks round the horse drawn carriage.

A lunchtime stop.

Jo, Sally and Des horsing round at morning tea.

Sunday in Germany is always a highlight as just about everything closes. And on Sunday the 7th when we rode, the weather was just perfect. Sunshine, little wind, and plenty to see as we pedaled happily along quiet roads. Our worst traffic obstacle was a horse-drawn cart driven by an older chap who seemed to be enjoying himself. We arrived in Harsewinkel - who wouldn't want to stay in a town called Harsewinkel - at Haus Bergman and enjoyed one of our best German meals for dinner, in the last of the summery breezes we have experienced.

Horses destined for the meat market.

Not quite the little white bulls.

From then on the landscape became flatter and more windswept, previewing the landscape where we spent our next rest day at Rysum. Few trees, no winding country roads arched over by summer green, fewer flower gardens and fruit trees. More Dutch than German, the fields are full of milking cows and rather huge sheep, many of which are grazing on the banks of canals. Most other animals have been in barns, as you can see from the picture of the young bulls we met along the way.

Des and Graeme are in heaven as a BBQ was purchased for little money at Westbevern. Grilled chicken and pork and bratwurst along with salad is like heaven. One can have too many schnitzels in this country. So far, no one has been game enough to take on the curry wurst, although Graeme says he will before too long.

A grim view of the Ems.

Little Red Riding Hood has now gone home, more's the pity.

And the rain. Who would have thought we'd be riding in rain and feeling the pinch at just 12 degrees? We're tough, though. Much tougher that when we are at home, where we don't even contemplate riding should there be a snifter of rain. The last riding day was long, the last 76kms of which was spent in the rain. I drove that day so missed out on the team bonding activity. The others were pretty glad to get to our cutesy Airbnb accommodation in this very cutesy village that has not been bombed or suffered wartime destruction. A huge flour and wind mill dominates the landscape, as well of course, the church, but this one is more Calvinistic than the usual Catholic churches further south.

North Sea sheep.

The wind and flour mill in Rysum.

Jo left us in Haren and we're hoping Maggie is going to join us in Bremen. We have made it to the North Sea but did not dip our toes into the rather still and putrid water, We were expecting high seas but were sorely disappointed.










So far so good. We have ridden somewhere between 850 - 1000kms so far.

Our stats:

August 7: Paderborn to Harsewinkel; 76kms

August 8: Harsewikel to Westbevern; 52kms

August 9: Westbevern to Telgte; 63.5kms

August 10: Telgte to Haren; 64.5kms

August 11: Haren to Rysum; 126kms