Thursday 19 December 2013

Last Days

Dining in Little India

The Straits of Malacca have always sounded intriguing to me, stories of pirates and trade, links with Europe and Asia. So it was wonderful to at last look out to sea from the city of Meleka, or Malacca if you prefer, and wander the narrow streets and lane ways imagining how things were 150 years ago.

An Islamic outfitter

Life today in Meleka is busy and commercial, but the highlight in the trading department are the decorated rickshaw cyclists, gaudily decorated sidecars for tourists to sit in and be pedaled around town. Some of the riders looked none too young or fit, but pedal they did.

 

Small bars supplying rose scented liqueurs and Chinese spirits could be found, as well as Chinese apothecaries. Little India boasted clothing and incense and busy restaurants where the food came promptly and plentifully.

 

The river walk was inspired by Austin, Texas, and was a picture of flowers, pleasure boats and cafés. It was fun spotting the water monitors and the slippery agile mud skippers, too.

A car full of drying biscuits
Ricks haws
Water monitors in the Meleka River

Port Dickson, on the other hand, is a busy and bustling seaside resort town where the locals flock in summer. Riding in we experienced peak traffic conditions. The hotel we stayed in was something like a Billy Butlin's holiday camp, according to Matthew, with its pool full of kids and blaring music.

 

One of the elements I have enjoyed most is the beaming smiles directed my way by Muslim women. They call hello, grin and wave and if we're stopped, make a little small talk. I think the way their open brown faces are framed by their scarves is very beautiful. Today construction workers called out, "Welcome to Malaysia!" A peloton of serious cyclists on a training ride all threw their hands I tot the air and clapped as they passed us. Drivers toot and wave sometimes, and at traffic lights people regard us curiously.

River dwellings, Meleka

Some of my fellow riders find Muslim dress for women rather confronting. This has been especially so when we are at swimming pools, seeing the girls and women in the head-to-toe outfits. I guess it is commonplace in Melbourne and I barely give the issue a thought, but it has certainly provoked some lively discussions around the dinner table in recent times.

Today's highlight was the roti maker, deftly slapping and shaping his dough and filling it with a spicy fish mixture. The roadsides are dotted with small home-run food stalls. I don't think there can be much domestic cooking taking place as everyone seems to crowd the cafés at breakfast and lunch times. We have been served a variety of food, some spicy and some mild, tending to bland. Eating out all the time is not for me though, and I can't wait to get back to my kitchen again to whip up some favourites.

 

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